Fiat Uno Racing Club

[alex1gt]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

si potrebbe magari organizzare un passaggio all'istituto proprio il giorno del raduno così ognuno avrebbe la sua foto con il caccia e la uno...

[herbie]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

SE A QUALCUNO INTERESSA...è IN INGLESE PERò...
Tuning
There are numerous possibilities of tuning the Uno, from the most modest 903cc engined car up to the excellent turbocharged models.
Firstly there are the more obvious 'bolt-on' modifications such as air filter, exhaust, brake pads, brake fluid, wheels and tyres. Suspension packages, containing four dampers and four springs, are also readily available.
For non-turbo cars there is then the possibility to fit turbo parts to improve those areas suitable. The brakes are a prime option, with the turbo having ventilated discs at the front and solid discs at the rear. All these can be fitted to any non-turbo car without major work. The 1116cc and 1301cc sohc engines also lend themselves to easy tuning. Either of these can be fitted with twin carburettors (usually 40 DCNFs or similar) and if this is combined with some mild cylinder head work they can produce impressive results. Another route for any Uno is simply to fit the larger 1500 engine from the Lancia Delta.
There follow some more details primarily designed for the turbo, but many are equally applicable to the normally aspirated versions.
a. Induction system
K&N air filter fitted directly to air flow meter. This is the best solution, which means the standard airbox and trunking can be removed - resulting in lower weight and a less cluttered engine bay.
There are various elements designed to fit in the standard airbox which will also improve the airflow (although not to the same extent) - and a clever one (OMP) which replaces the lid of the airbox with a foam element.
The addition of a cold air intake will also bring noticeable improvements. Recommended is a 4 inch diameter flex pipe through front bumper and front panel (under n/s headlight)), but some may baulk at having to cut away some of the front panel (the hole for the injector cooling fan intake can be simply enlagened) and it is also possible to use a smaller diameter duct from behind the front bumper (next to the oil cooler) and to route it up next to the gearbox.
Depending on the age and condition (and boost level) of your engine, it may be worthwhile venting the crankcase breather to atmosphere to reduce oil loss from seals. This again 'unclutters' the engine bay a bit more.
If running with a higher than standard boost pressure it is recommended to use silicon hoses from the turbo onwards.
To improve the cooling effect of the intercooler, it is relatively simple to fit a system which sprays water onto the matrix. This can be triggered in several ways. The simplest (assuming that the boost has been raised) is to use the sensor in the end of the inlet manifold which previously cut out the ignition over about 0.8 bar. The 'best' system is to use a thermal switch in the inlet manfold. Other options include a throttle position switch (full throttle spraying - not recommended) or a dedicated pressure switch.
The simplest system utilises the reservoir and motor of the rear wash/wipe system, alternatively a dedicated reservoir can be installed. The one pictured is also used for the screenwash and was relocated to improve weight balance.
The last part of the induction system can be improved by increasing the size of the butterfly valve.
b.General Engine Modifications
FSE rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
New HT leads.
A rev limiter is a must and this can be combined with a shift light which helps greatly when most of your concentration is on the road.
A hybrid turbo with a larger compressor will improve the top end of the power band. Where the standard unit fails to produce full boost the larger compressor enables the hybrid turbo to supply full boost all the way to the rev limiter.
A bleed valve is the simplest way of raising the boost and is quite safe with the standard system up to about 0.95 bar. It is recommended to use an additive to increase the octane of the fuel.
Due to the turbine, exhaust noise is low and it is possible to fit an exhaust system with no silencing (unless you are competing!). A bore of at least 2.5" is recommended.
Fully synthetic oil is a must for all cars - however modified or not.
It is worth paying some attention to the underbonnet temperatures (which can easily reach around 90°C). With careful thermal lagging (aluminised asbestos/silica sheet for example) of the exhaust manifold, turbocharger (only the turbine side!) and downpipe the temperatures can be significantly reduced and the shields fitted as standard to the alternator and below the inlet manifold can be removed. It is also worth fitting some thermal insulation sleeve around the flexible fuel line from the filter to the fuel rail. the latter can also be lagged.
A larger opening in front bumper to aid airflow to the radiator will help the coolant system when under stress !
c. Modifying the standard braking system
Generally :
Stainless-steel braided flexible hoses (all five) will significantly improve the pedal feel.
Ferodo DOT5 brake fluid gives good feel and performs well at higher temperatures.
front :
drilled & grooved discs with Mintex M1144 pads
for better heat dissipation it is also worthwhile removing the dust guards and installing ducting from the front bumper
rear :
grooved discs with FIAT original spec pads (leave the dust guards in place)
To achieve a better balance (and for adjustability to cope with different weather conditions etc...)
Pressure adjuster. This can be easily fitted to the inside of o/s sill and also routes the brake pipes through the cockpit for increases safety. The original rear bias valve is deleted, saving some weight. The valve pictured is a Wilwood unit which enables a reduction in pressure of up to 57%.
It is also possible to fit twin master cylinders, with no assistance, which allow a better bias adjustment to be made. The easiest (and most proven) way to follow this route is to copy the layout used by the works rally cars.
d. More serious braking modifications
Stage 1: Bigger discs : Bigger discs can be fitted (depending onwheel size) utilising the standard callipers and a new spacer bracket. These provide more braking power and better heat dissipation, but do significantly increase the unsprung weight.
Stage 2: New Callipers : Alloy 4 and 6 pot callipers are available from a variety of sources which can be fitted to the standard discs, or to the larger discs as described above.
Stage 3: The ultimate solution consists of four pot alloy callipers with larger discs on an alumnium bell housing. This provides more than adequate braking and also results in a lower unsprung weight.

e. Suspension modifications
front :
New dampers and springs can be purchased in packs, which are generally well suited to fast road use. For competition use coil-over units are recommended for their increased adjustability. Adjustable-rate units are compromised (compared to fixed rate units) but offer flexibility for both road and competition use. Top adjustables are obviously easier to use than the 'adjust-before-you-fit' type. Spring rates depend on the useage and weight of the car.
The standard top mounts can be modified by cutting off the rubber cone and replacing it with an aluminium cone. This reduces the flexibility of the mount. Alternatively spherical bearing aluminium top mounts can be purchased, both concentric and eccentric (which allows increased adjustability). Normally these can only be used with coil over units. They are highly recommended.
A strut brace (aluminium is obviously preferable) will help increase the stiffness of the front end and thus improve the handling.
Nylon bushes can be purchased for the anti-roll bar and the 'lower wishbone' which again help reduce unwanted movement.
For additional fine-tuning the upper hole (in the strut bracket) where the strut bolts to the hub carrier can be elongated, which will allow the camber to be adjusted.
For more severe useage, the front wishbones should be reinforced as developed for the FIAT competition cars.
rear :
The same rules for the dampers and springs apply as for the front, although it is not possible to fit coil over units without reworking the inner wings, since there is not enough clearance. Adjustable dampers are restricted to those with adjusting screws located at the bottom of the casing.
Again a strut brace will bring improvements, as will nylon bushes in the beam pivots.
If wider wheels are being used check the clearance with the auxiliiary fuel tank. If required, 5mm spacers can be found as OE equipment on X1/9s and will fit perfectly.
Stiffening the rear beam axle is a popular modification, however the common method of partially boxing the channel section is not to be recommended, since the weak points are at the ends and can easily become overstressed. The best way is to follow the homologated modification, which is to bolt a circular bar, with correctly fitted end plates, inside the channel section. This transfers the loads without overstressing the weak points of the production design. The ends of the beam around the hub should also be strengthened by additional welding and some small fillet plates (as FIAT used when competing).
f. other details
One advantage of having a FIAT is the endless possibilities of using FIAT, Alfa Romeo or Lancia wheels, although it can be difficult to find the larger sizes with a four stud fitting. The largest size which will fit without modifying the bodywork (and probably the largest necessary for the power output achievable whilst giving plenty of room for brake upgrades) is about 7x15 (35mm offset) with a 195/45-15 tyre. At the rear there is no need for such rubber - 6x14 wheels with 185/50 tyres are adequate. This size is much more easily 'findable' on other Italian CARS

[alex1gt]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

addirittura....

[herbie]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

addirittura....

cosa "addirittura"?!
tu non è che mi puoi procurare un quadro e un volante della turbo?! lo sto dicendo a tutti...

[Lucky]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

Usare l'additivo se si porta la pressione a 0.95???
Ma che marocchino ha scritto stà roba???

[herbie]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

Usare l'additivo se si porta la pressione a 0.95???
Ma che marocchino ha scritto stà roba???

lo trovato su internet...non so se si riferisca alla prima o seconda serie...

[Lucky]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

Lo so che l'hai trovato su internet....
Come non lo sai??
C'è scritto 1301.......

[herbie]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

raga un tizio voleva vendermi delle minigonne insistendo che fossero di una versione Giannini e dicendo che per montarle si sfruttano solo i fori esistenti sul fondo....a me sembrano identiche a quelle delle comuni turbo..a cui si fanno pure i buchi nelle fiancate per i tasselli....

[herbie]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

Lo so che l'hai trovato su internet....
Come non lo sai??
C'è scritto 1301.......

a me sembra che dove parla di 1301 stia parlando delle aspirate...

[Gheblar]

Re: Fiat Uno Racing Club

Ciao Gheblar ho visitato il tuo sito...davvero forte la tua Uno..e forte tu che fai tutto..Complimenti!!!!
Dimmi una cosa:il volante l'hai cambiato o è l'originale senza la copertura centrale?!

Grazie

Il volante è l'originale senza la copertura

Gheb, La Prox Settimana Viene Smilzo A Trovarci A Pisa. Sabato E Domenica, Ce La Fai A Raggiungerci Per Una Rimpatriata Notturna?

Se non lavoro vengo volentieri!!!!

Gheb, Guarda Di Sistemare Quel Video Di Bologna, Cosi' Ce Lo Vediamo Tutti

Azz! Hai proprio ragione Figurati, devo ancora mandare la cassetta anche a Turbomark

allora nella foto del gruppo dei piloti io sono il 4° da destra della fila in alto, il 5° è mastro gheblar, sotto di lui nella fila in basso il tecnico smilzo, sempre nella fila in basso il 1° da sinistra è turbomark ed al centro seduto il mitico sbracio.... che armata, gente!!!

Rispetto al primo raduno.... avevamo fatto un bel passo avanti! Ecco le uniche Uno del primo raduno: